Again, this is a 1947 Champion motor. We got the idea for a modern timing cover lip seal from Gary Ash's web site.
After searching thru the National catalogue, we found a seal with an ID and OD close to what we needed.
Turns out this fit a 350 Chevy.
Dimensions:
The OD of the Stude crank is 1.25
The ID of the OEM Stude timing cover hole is a hair under 2.00
The OD of the Chevy pulley seal area is 1.763
The recess for the Stude seal is .250
The recess for the Chevy seal is .375
The PN for the Timken lip seal is 9845
There were 5 steps involved:
1. We had Phil Harris turn the Stude crank pulley seal area down to 1.763 from 1.870. Then Miles polished it.
The polishing here in the pic can be deceiving because it is reflecting the black paint
2.
Get a Chevy 350 timing cover and cut the center portion out and grind
off most of the OD of the cutout so that it will lay inside the Stude
timing cover
3. The
bolts for the Stude timing cover are a bit loose in the cover and proper
centering would be impossible using just the bolts. With some careful
measuring we derived locations for 4 alignment pins, or in this case
10-32 screws. The pix show these "pins" or screws painted red for
clarity. 3 screwed into the block and one thru the backing plate. We
drilled and tapped the holes for 10-32. That tap size needs a number 21
drill. The 3 holes we made in the block do not conflict with any water
or oil passages. We used 10-32x3/4 button head machine screws
4.
In order to get everything centered and concentric we machined up a
fixturing hub from a large aluminum bushing. We started with a 2"OD 1"ID blank from
McMaster Carr. (mcmaster.com).
We
turned a hair off 1/2 of the OD to fit into the Stude cover, turned the
other half of the OD down to 1.763, and bored out the center to 1.25.
This
hub allowed us to drill the alignment pins in the correct location, and
then center the 350 cover cutout with the seal in place on the inside
of the Stude cover. Of course the crank was in the block for all this.
5. We TIGed the edges of the two covers from the outside. Once you tack in 4 places, you will need to grind away most of the Stude cover lip. Then you can TIG
The
end result has about half the width of the seal protruding inside the
cover, but there is quite a bit of extra room in there.There is no interference with the slinger. Because the heat
from TIGing will distort the seal you used as a locater, you will need to buy 2.
The pix from here are self explanatory.
We
spent more time engineering and designing this than actually doing it.
With the concept, the details, and the centering fixture already on hand
, this is actually very easy to do.
We are happy to loan out the centering fixture hub to anyone interested
